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— Red —

Mendoza, Argentina
■ Bonarda
Altos Las Hormigas are Argentina's Malbec specialists, but this is their love letter to Bonarda, the country's other great red grape. Certified organic, fermented in steel and kept in concrete with no oak, so it's all juicy dark cherry, plum and pink peppercorn with soft tannins. They think of it as their Beaujolais: a proper trattoria red for pizza and pasta.
Fleurieu Peninsula, Australia
■ Cabernet Sauvignon
From the dry-grown Stranger's Reach vineyard on the Fleurieu Peninsula, cooled by the Southern Ocean. Hand-picked, basket-pressed and aged mostly in older French oak, bottled unfined and unfiltered. Blackcurrant, plum and a lick of tobacco and cedar, with the round, powdery tannins of good Cabernet. One for steak night.
Yarra Valley, Australia
■ Nebbiolo
Luke Lambert's Nebbiolo is widely regarded as Australia's benchmark for the grape. From a granite-soiled block on the Denton vineyard in the Yarra Valley, wild-fermented, aged in large oak and bottled unfiltered. Dark cherry, raspberry and dried roses with tar, anise and graphite, held by fine, firm tannins. Give it a decant and something rich alongside.
McLaren Vale, Australia
■ Grenache
Stephen Pannell is one of Australia's great Grenache champions, and Basso ('low') is his low-sulphur, unfiltered take on it. Dry-grown McLaren Vale fruit raised in large old vats. Bright raspberry, cherry and watermelon with rose petal and a little spice, medium-bodied with sandy tannins. A red that takes a light chill; great with charcuterie or barbecue.
Austria
■ Blaufränkisch
Biodynamic Blaufränkisch from the Michlits family's mixed farm beside the Neusiedlersee, where cattle, grain and vines all run on one cycle. Light on its feet at 11.5%: sour cherry, black pepper and a cool chalky edge, dry and unforced. Give it twenty minutes in the fridge and treat it like a good Loire red.
Wagram, Austria
Weingut Fritsch — Zweigelt 750ml · 12.5%
£18
■ Zweigelt
Bright ruby with a youthful rim: juicy red cherry and plum, a light peppery spice and gentle herbal lift, soft tannin and a fresh, balanced finish. An easy, food-friendly red from Karl Fritsch's Wagram vineyards. Certified organic and biodynamic (respekt-BIODYN).
Melnik, Bulgaria
■ Melnik 55 (Early Melnik Vine)
The polished, barrel-aged expression of Melnik 55, a modern Bulgarian crossing of the indigenous Broad-leaved Melnik with Valdiguié: deep ruby with violet nuances, ripe red fruits, black cherry and blueberry lifted by vanilla and spice. 24 months in French oak.
Bulgaria
A sweet red from Mavrud grapes air-dried for three months before pressing. Dark and rich — prunes, blackcurrant, caramel and chocolate — held together by fresh acidity and soft tannins. No oak. Half bottle.
Itata Valley, Chile
■ Cinsault-led blend
Clos des Fous ('the madmen') was founded by terroir obsessive Pedro Parra and friends to prove Chile can do more than industrial reds. Old dry-farmed bush vines on granite in Itata, Cinsault-led with a little País and others, made in concrete. Bright red cherry, wild raspberry and a peppery, herby edge. Light enough to chill.
Corbières-Boutenac, France
■ Carignan, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache
The château's flagship Boutenac, sold until recently as Cuvée Prestige. Carignan goes in whole-bunch and carbonic, the Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache the traditional way, all on wild yeasts with no added sulphur, then ten months split between tank and demi-muid. Dense and savoury — dark fruit, garrigue and crushed stone — with the polish that separates Boutenac from everyday Corbières. Certified organic.
Sainte-Foy-Bordeaux, France
■ Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot
A ripe but fresh Right-Bank-style red (the estate's "CDT" cuvée, labelled Vin de France): dark cherry, forest fruits, a hint of spice and dark chocolate, framed by fine, ripe tannins. Certified organic (Ecocert) and farmed biodynamically. Made by Corinne and Jean-Michel Comme.
Saint-Émilion, France
■ Merlot (65%), Cabernet Franc (35%)
Six hectares on the Figeac plateau, hemmed in on all sides by Cheval Blanc, Figeac and — over the Pomerol line — La Conseillante. Merlot with a third Cabernet Franc off gravel terraces, aged around a year in a third new oak, a third one-year barrels and a third concrete. Cherries, spice and sweet earth; broad but lively, with the moderate alcohol that made 2020 such a fine Right Bank vintage. Wine Advocate gave it 92 points and the Guide Hachette a star. Certified organic (Ecocert) since the 2012 vintage.
Touraine, France
■ Gamay blend
From Thierry Puzelat's family estate in Les Montils, one of the founding names of Loire natural wine. A Gamay-led négoce red made from friends' organic grapes, wild-fermented and bottled without fining, filtration or added sulphur. Juicy, bright and herb-flecked, with tart cherry and red berries. Serve lightly chilled.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France
■ Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah
A half bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape from the Jaume family's Domaine des Chanssaud, made by Élodie before she renamed the estate after herself. Grenache-led with a little Mourvèdre and Syrah: dark fruit, sweet spice and garrigue herbs, now with a few years of age on it. A treat for one or two.
Kindzmarauli & Kvareli, Georgia
■ Saperavi
Bedoba means 'day of luck'. Georgia's signature red grape from 30-year-old vines in Kakheti, partly made in traditional clay qvevri and partly in oak. Inky and rich, with blackberry, plum and fig, a herbal edge and white pepper on the finish, held together by fresh acidity.
Terre Siciliane IGT (Vittoria), Italy
■ Nero d'Avola, Frappato
A light-to-medium-bodied natural red from south-east Sicily, concentrated yet delicate, with red berries and blood orange, floral and herbal notes, and a fresh, saline finish. Organic grapes.
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, Italy
■ Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella
Deep ruby to garnet, with cherry jam, dried fruit cake and vanilla. Concentrated and full-bodied from appassimento-dried grapes — ripe black fruit, coffee and toast over a warm, structured finish, softened by time in oak. Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG at 15%.
Salemi, Italy
■ Frappato, Nerello Mascalese
Two Sicilian natives, Frappato and Nerello Mascalese, from the hills around Salemi in the Marsala hinterland. Organic, part aged in barrique and part in steel. Fresh red cherry, a twist of spice and a mineral edge. Light enough to chill and good with both meat and fish.
Italy
■ Nero d'Avola, Merlot
An easy-drinking Sicilian blend of Nero d'Avola and Merlot. Deep ruby with liquorice and raspberry — a great everyday red for pizza, pasta or a simple charcuterie board.
Montalcino, Italy
■ Sangiovese
Brunello's younger sibling, and it drinks like it — pure Sangiovese from Flavio Fanti's vineyards on the southern side of Montalcino, fourteen months in French tonneaux and four more in bottle. Bright ruby with violets and sour cherry, soft-tannined and carried by the acidity that makes Montalcino such a good wine at the table. Ready now, but in no hurry.
Bolgheri, Italy
■ Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon
The Allegrini family's Bolgheri estate, with vineyards right next to Ornellaia. Il Seggio is named after the stream that runs through the area (its course is drawn on the label). A Merlot-led Bordeaux-style blend: red and black berries, tobacco leaf and spice, with silky tannins and a fresh finish. Super Tuscan polish at a fair price.
Assisi, Italy
■ Sangiovese
High-altitude Sangiovese from the Monte Subasio park above Assisi, farmed without herbicides or pesticides. Bright red cherry with a savoury tomato-leaf edge, tannins already well integrated and fresh acidity keeping it lively — good with a light chill. Umbria IGT, imported by Les Caves de Pyrène.
New Zealand
■ Red blend
A cult collaboration between Alex Craighead of Kindeli, one of New Zealand's natural wine pioneers, and Kazuomi Fujimaki of Japan's Grape Republic. Made from organically farmed New Zealand grapes in their playful low-intervention style: profound but fun. A rare one.
Haloze, Slovenia
A single-vineyard, low-intervention red from marl and sandstone soils. Morello cherry, redcurrant and dried herbs, medium-bodied with a long mineral finish.
Glen Fruin Farms, South Africa
Nomad Wines — Inferno 2022 750ml · 12.5%
£28
■ Cabernet Sauvignon
Cool-climate Cabernet from Elgin, high in the hills east of Cape Town, grown at Glen Fruin Farms. At just 12.5% it's a lighter, fresher take on the grape than you'd expect from South Africa: blackcurrant and red fruit with a herbal edge and fine tannins.
South Africa
■ Cinsault
Organic, dry-farmed bush-vine Cinsault from the Paarl-Swartland border. Wild florals, cranberry and cherry with a spicy, juicy finish — a crunchy, chillable red.
Utiel-Requena, Spain
■ Bobal, Tempranillo
Certified organic from Sierra Norte's vineyards at 900 metres in Utiel-Requena, led by Valencia's native Bobal. Juicy blueberry, blackberry and plum with a touch of spice and soft tannins. A great-value everyday red for pizza, tapas and stews.
Rioja Alta, Spain
■ Tempranillo, Garnacha, Viura
A classical Rioja Alta Crianza from Haro, made the old way: twenty months in barrel — six longer than the rules ask for — three-quarters American oak, then eight more months resting in the underground cellar before release. Plum and prune with sweet spice folding into something savoury, finishing clean and faintly saline off the calcareous soils. Bottled unfiltered, and worth decanting.
La Parrilla, Valladolid, Spain
■ Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon
Intense cherry-red Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon grown at 1,000m on calcareous soils near Valladolid. Concentrated blackcurrant and dark fruit with cracked pepper and gentle oak spice — powerful but poised, finishing long and well balanced.
Rioja Alavesa, Spain
■ Tempranillo, Graciano, Viura
Deep ruby Rioja Alavesa from old-vine Tempranillo, Graciano and a splash of Viura, whole-bunch fermented with native yeast. Around eighteen months in French oak and foudre brings dark cherry, balsamic herbs and chalky, fine-grained tannin. Certified organic and biodynamic.
Ribera del Duero DO, Spain
■ Tempranillo (Tinto Fino)
Bright purple Ribera del Duero from 40-year-old Tinto Fino on clay loam, briefly macerated then six months in French oak. Wildflowers and morello cherry on the nose, fresh acidity carrying muscular dark fruit to a lightly oak-spiced finish. A more approachable style of Ribera. Certified organic.
Rioja Alavesa, Spain
■ Tempranillo
A family winery in the cooler, higher Rioja Alavesa, growing in Elvillar and Laguardia since 1910. Classic Crianza: a year in oak then bottle-aged, giving ripe cherry, plum and vanilla with silky tannins and warm spice. Made for lamb and grilled meats.
Spain
■ Garnacha, Tempranillo, Mazuelo
New-wave Rioja: Garnacha and Mazuelo from Tudelilla and Nájera blended with Tempranillo from Laguardia in Rioja Alavesa, raised in concrete so nothing gets between you and the fruit. Red cherry, redcurrant and dried herbs, fine-boned and mineral — Rioja as a blend of places rather than a stack of oak. Just 8,666 bottles made.
DOP Cebreros, Sierra de Gredos, Spain
■ Garnacha
Sierra de Gredos Garnacha off granite soils around Burgohondo, some vines over 70 years old. Partial whole-bunch ferment in steel, unoaked, bottled unfined and unfiltered: ripe cherry, wild strawberry and mountain herbs with crisp, mineral-edged acidity.
Manchuela DO, Spain
■ Bobal (old vines)
Cherry red with violet tones, from old Bobal vines planted in 1941 in Manchuela: black fruit, cherry and redcurrant with a mineral edge, a fleshy palate, noble tannin and bright acidity. The 2022 vintage took a Silver medal (94 points) at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2024. Certified organic.
Lodi, USA
■ Cabernet Sauvignon (80%), Merlot, Petite Sirah
A California project from music-industry veterans Pat Corcoran and Tim Smith, made with consultant winemaker Birk O'Halloran. Fruit comes from sandy, sustainably farmed vineyards across Lodi, where Delta breezes keep things fresh. Ripe blackcurrant and black cherry with a round, plush texture and bright acidity. A crowd-pleasing steak red.
Garzón, Uruguay
■ Tannat
Uruguay's flagship grape from the country's standard-bearer winery, in the granite hills near the Atlantic coast at Maldonado. Aged up to a year on its lees in steel and large untoasted casks, so it's Tannat with the edges smoothed off: black plum, blackberry and spice, full-bodied but fresh, with ripe tannins. Made for steak.
Slovakia
David Kusický — Hey Mate! 750ml · 12.5%
£26
■ Pinot Noir
Light-bodied and vibrant with bright red cherry, herbs and a gentle freshness. Best served slightly chilled. A natural wine that punches well above its price, and great for Burgundy lovers. Certified organic.
■ Pinot Noir
Cherry-ruby in colour with an elegant, slowly unfolding nose of red berries, raspberry and minerals. Medium-bodied, dry and harmonious with silky fine-grained tannins and a long mineral finish. Spontaneously fermented and aged 12 months in barriques. A beautifully crafted Pinot from volcanic terroir.
Svetík — Alibernet 2018 750ml · 12.5%
£33
■ Alibernet (Alicante Bouschet x Cabernet Sauvignon cross)
Deep, dark and full-bodied with blackberries, black pepper and cloves. Alibernet was bred at the Tairov Institute in Odesa in 1948, crossing Alicante Bouschet with Cabernet Sauvignon, and has become something of a Slovak speciality: intense colour and a distinctly Cabernet-like character. For bold red lovers.
Rioja Alavesa, Spain
■ Tempranillo
Everyday drinking at its best. Juicy red fruit, soft tannins and a smooth finish. Tempranillo is Spain's most celebrated red grape — think cherries, plums and a gentle earthiness. Brilliant value.
Alicante, Spain
■ Garnacha
Single-vineyard Garnacha, whole-bunch fermented in concrete with zero added sulphites. Summer pudding and kirsch on the nose, juicy red fruit and Mediterranean herbs on the palate. Unfined, unfiltered and utterly natural.
Rhône Valley, France
■ Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre
The classic Southern Rhône blend — red berries, Provençal herbs and a warm, spicy finish. Generous and food-friendly. Perfect with lamb, charcuterie or a hearty stew.
South West France, France
■ Duras, Braucol (local South West varieties)
Made from rare indigenous varieties found almost nowhere else. Rustic yet charming, with dark fruit, earthy depth and a lively finish. A real discovery for adventurous wine drinkers.
Corbières-Boutenac, France
■ Carignan, Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre
Corbières-Boutenac is one of the Languedoc's finest appellations. Deep garnet with rich dark fruit, garrigue and hints of dark chocolate. Full-bodied with well-integrated tannins, and a serious wine. Certified organic since 2006.
Puglia, Italy
■ Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera
The sun-drenched heel of Italy produces this rich, deep red. Dark plums, dried figs and a warming spice with a characteristically slightly bitter Negroamaro finish. Exceptional value for money.
Marlborough, New Zealand
■ Pinot Noir
From Marlborough's cooler inland valleys, this organic Pinot Noir shows red cherry, raspberry and gentle earthiness with a long, silky finish. The Henri Bourgeois family brings Loire precision to the Southern Hemisphere.
Loire Valley, France
■ Pinot Noir
Red Sancerre is a revelation — pale, delicate and perfumed with red fruits and flinty minerality from the famous flint and limestone soils of the Loire. Far lighter and more elegant than most red wines.
Piedmont, Italy
■ Nebbiolo
The 'King of Italian wines.' Tar, roses, dried cherry and leather, with the silky, approachable tannins that mark out the 2018 vintage. Open and generous, drinking beautifully now rather than needing years in the cellar. Worth decanting.
Adelaide Hills, Australia
■ Sangiovese
Gareth and Rainbo Belton's Sangiovese, made at Basket Range in the Adelaide Hills. Bright red fruit and red florals with dusty, chalky tannins and a lifted, puckering acidity. Old World in style, high-altitude Australian in origin. Minimal-intervention winemaking. As good as lunch wine gets.
Barossa Valley, Australia
■ Shiraz (Syrah)
Barossa Shiraz dialled down: fresh, peppery and medium-bodied with blackberry compote, black pepper and savoury herbs. Made by winemaker Xavier Goodridge from naturally fermented, sustainably farmed fruit, with just a touch of sulphur at bottling.

— White —

Limestone Coast, Australia
■ Chardonnay
Patrick Sullivan made his name with site-driven Gippsland Chardonnay; this one comes from volcanic soils over limestone and basalt in Mount Gambier, Coonawarra and Wrattonbully. Whole-bunch pressed and fermented in barrel and tank. Lime, grapefruit and white peach with a touch of hazelnut and toast, and a fine mineral line. Lovely with roast chicken or buttery fish.
Adelaide Hills, Australia
■ Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc
The Pannell family's high-altitude Adelaide Hills vineyard, which survived a bushfire days after they bought it in 2019. Aromatico blends Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc in a dry, Northern Italian style. Lychee, rosewater, ginger and mandarin with crisp, refreshing acidity. Made for spicy food: Thai, curries, dumplings.
Wagram, Austria
■ Grüner Veltliner
Pale straw with a green tinge: yellow orchard fruit and citrus zest lifted by white pepper and herbal spice. Fresh and rounded, with lively acidity driving a clean, moreish finish. Certified organic and biodynamic (respekt-BIODYN).
East Sussex, England
■ Bacchus
From Henners in Herstmonceux, East Sussex, founded by an ex-F1 race engineer. England's signature white grape, part fermented in oak with a splash of Chardonnay for texture. Elderflower, gooseberry, white currant and lime: think a subtler cousin of Sauvignon Blanc.
Cairanne, France
■ Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette
A rare white from the Southern Rhône village of Cairanne. Hand-picked, fermented and aged six months in 300-400 litre barrels chosen for texture rather than oaky flavour. Pear, citrus and flowers with a gentle spicy, smoky edge, plump and mineral. Lovely with roast chicken.
Côtes-du-Rhône, France
■ Grenache Blanc, Clairette
Élodie Jaume is the first woman in five generations to run her family's estate on the edge of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and is rewriting the southern Rhône with biodynamic farming, concrete ageing and very little sulphur. Her Coudoulet white is Grenache Blanc and Clairette from vineyards next door to Châteauneuf: textured, mineral and gently herbal.
IGP Pays d'Hérault, France
■ Viognier, Roussanne, Sauvignon Blanc
From Anaïs Ricome, whose family estate near the Mediterranean is rated the pinnacle of Picpoul de Pinet. Certified organic and farmed biodynamically, all unoaked. Viognier leads, so expect perfumed apricot and peach with ripe lime, bright acidity and a long, fresh finish. Great with prawns or roast chicken.
Corse AOC, France
■ Vermentino
The only vineyard in Corsica's mountainous interior, run by Jean-Marc and Manu Venturi. Vermentinu from old vines on blue schist, wild-fermented and aged on its lees. Pear, lemon zest and white flowers with a herbal, salty mineral finish. Brilliant with seafood.
IGP Pays d'Hérault, France
■ Terret Bourret
The white in the Serin family's Oscar trio, made from Terret Bourret — an old Hérault variety that has become genuinely rare. Mint and white flowers on the nose, then a fresh, racy palate full of white orchard fruit and a clean, saline finish. Certified organic. Lovely as an aperitif or with seafood.
France
■ Viognier
Bright, aromatic Viognier from the Côtes de Thau in the Languedoc, grown by the lagoons of the Bassin de Thau. Fresh stone fruit and floral notes with a soft, rounded finish.
Kakheti, Georgia
■ Rkatsiteli, Kisi
Two Georgian native grapes: Rkatsiteli fermented in clay qvevri and Kisi in steel, then rested on the lees in old oak. Ripe pear, baked apple, honeycomb and toasted almond with a wild-herb lift. A textured, characterful white for anyone curious about Georgia without diving straight into amber wine.
Greece
A single-vineyard Vidiano from a Demeter biodynamic estate near the Nestos river. Peach, apricot, white raspberry, creamy texture, long finish.
Hungary
A dry Furmint & Hárslevelű blend from an organic Tokaj estate, wild fermented and aged on the lees. Apple, quince and pineapple, with crisp Tokaj acidity and a mineral finish.
Terre Siciliane IGP, Italy
■ Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria)
A dry Sicilian white from aromatic Zibibbo, briefly cold-macerated on its skins before pressing to lift the aromatics. Brilliant pale straw, with ripe apricot, almond and orange blossom on the nose, a soft palate and a long, persistent finish. Dry, despite the grape's sweeter reputation.
Falerio DOC, Italy
■ Trebbiano, Passerina, Pecorino
Delicate and soft, with green apple, honeysuckle and light floral notes over a gentle mineral, well-balanced acidity. An easy, seafood-friendly white. Certified organic.
Friuli Colli Orientali DOC, Italy
Perusini — Friulano 2024 750ml · 12.5%
£20
■ Friulano
From the Perusini family's vineyards on the Gramogliano hill in Friuli's Colli Orientali, fermented in stainless steel and left six months on its lees. Bright yellow-green, with elderflower and white rose over apricot, kiwi and gooseberry, closing dry and sapid on the classic Friulano note of bitter almond.
Lima, Portugal
■ Loureiro
Loureiro from Vasco Croft's Aphros estate in the Lima valley, certified biodynamic (Biodyvin). Spritzy and citrus-driven with a saline edge and a light natural prickle — the sort of Vinho Verde that tastes of the Atlantic rather than of sugar. Bottled for the Terroirs Project.
Sarica-Niculițel, Romania
A dry white from Aligoté grown on sandy-loam soils in Dobrogea, near the Danube Delta. Fermented with native yeasts in stainless steel and rested on its lees over winter — no oak, no skin contact. Floral and citrussy, fresh and lightly mineral. Certified organic.
Swartland, South Africa
■ Chenin Blanc
Adi Badenhorst is one of the leading lights of the Swartland, farming old dry-grown bush vines on the Paardeberg. Secateurs is his everyday Chenin: wild-fermented in old casks, concrete and steel, with plenty of time on its lees. Peach, apple, orange blossom and honey with a flinty, salty edge. A brilliant all-rounder; try it with pork or roast squash.
Schapenberg, South Africa
■ Sauvignon Blanc
Biodynamically farmed on the windswept Schapenberg, two miles from the Atlantic, and whole-bunch pressed with minimal intervention. Not the usual tropical Cape Sauvignon: citrus, stone fruit and fennel with real texture and a taut, stony finish. For Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre fans.
Utiel-Requena, Spain
■ Macabeo
The white partner to the Ananto red: certified-organic Macabeo from Sierra Norte's high-altitude vineyards in Utiel-Requena. Fresh, crisp and unfussy. An easy everyday white.
Spain
■ Sauvignon Blanc, Verdejo
Organic Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo from high-altitude limestone vineyards in Almansa. Tropical fruit and citrus with a clean, mineral, long finish — a real crowd-pleaser.
Santa Margalida, Spain
Blend
Blend of indigenous Mallorcan grapes from the Son Llebre vineyard on iron-rich clay-calcareous soils. Short skin contact, fermented in stainless steel. Salty, refreshing, with melon, herbs, and citrus. Bottled without added sulphur, stabilisation, or filtration.
Spain
■ Xarel·lo
Xarel·lo from dry-farmed, hand-picked Penedès parcels, made by the still-wine arm of Recaredo. Orchard apple, fennel and a chalky, faintly waxy grip — the grape taken seriously on its own rather than buried in a cava blend. Organic and minimally handled; it may throw a light natural sediment.
Manchuela DO, Spain
■ Chardonnay
Pale-lemon Chardonnay from high-altitude chalky clay in DO Manchuela. White peach, pear and citrus blossom, full-bodied and rounded on the palate, with fresh acidity carrying through to a soft orchard-fruit finish. Certified organic.
East Sussex, England
■ Chardonnay
Ben Walgate's Chardonnay, made at his Rye winery from two clay sites in the south east — one farmed biodynamically, one conventionally. Whole-bunch pressed and fermented in a mix of stainless steel and oak barrels of varying size and age: fleshy apricot and taut ripe citrus up front, salty and nutty underneath.
South West France, France
■ Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle
Montravel is a lesser-known appellation in the Dordogne producing excellent dry whites. Fresh citrus and stone fruit with a gentle roundness from the Sémillon. Brilliant value for a versatile food wine.
Picpoul de Pinet AOP, France
■ Picpoul (Piquepoul Blanc)
Picpoul — often glossed as 'lip-stinger', though the Occitan more likely points at hens pecking the grapes — is the Languedoc's great shellfish white. This organic cuvée comes from vineyards above the Étang de Thau: lemon zest, white blossom and a saline, mineral finish. The classic match for oysters.
Languedoc, France
■ Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Mauzac
A blend of Chardonnay, Chenin and Mauzac from Etienne Fort's vines at Bouriège, up at 450m on clay-limestone in the hills of Limoux. Fresh and lively, with orchard fruit, citrus zest and a clean, dry finish. Stainless steel, very low sulphur. Great with seafood.
Campania, Italy
■ Fiano, Greco
From the ancient vineyards of Campania, this blend of Fiano and Greco brings peach, toasted nuts, honeysuckle and a rich, almost waxy texture. Southern Italy's white wines are seriously undervalued.
Bergerac, France
■ Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle
The flagship white from a family estate in Bergerac, now run by the next generation of the de Conti family. A classic Sud-Ouest blend — Sémillon for roundness, Sauvignon for lift, Muscadelle for floral aromatics. White peach, acacia blossom and a mineral finish. Organic. Brilliant value.
Côtes de Gascogne, France
■ Colombard, Ugni Blanc
Crisp, unfussy and brilliantly refreshing. A blend of Colombard and Ugni Blanc from Plaimont, a Gascon co-operative of several hundred family growers. Lemon zest, orchard fruit and a clean finish. A fridge-door regular. Sauvignon drinkers take note.
Awatere & Wairau Valleys, New Zealand
■ Sauvignon Blanc
A thinking-person's Marlborough Sauvignon from a small family-run, certified organic estate. Passionfruit, guava and elderflower with fresh basil and lime, softened by 10% old-oak ferment for texture. Juicy, mineral and properly elegant — a world away from the supermarket style.
Guerrouane, Morocco
■ Chardonnay
Moroccan Chardonnay from an organic estate at the foot of the Middle Atlas. Deep yellow and tropical on the nose — custard apple, quince and green almond — with a subtle oak caress and a long musky finish. Big, generous and genuinely distinctive; a curiosity worth taking seriously.

— Orange —

Gols, Neusiedlersee, Austria
■ Traminer (Gewürztraminer)
Skin-contact Traminer from Judith Beck's biodynamic estate at Gols, on the eastern shore of the Neusiedlersee. Around eight to ten days on the skins and a rest in used barriques turn the grape's natural exuberance — rose petal, orange peel and warm spice — into something drier and gently grippy. Certified biodynamic (respekt-BIODYN). A brilliant match for spiced and aromatic food.
Kutná Hora, Czech Republic
■ Riesling (Ryzlink rýnský)
Whole bunches of Riesling fermented in clay amphorae for nine months, then nine more in French oak — a Bohemian take on the Georgian method, from the U Všech svatých (All Saints) vineyard at Kutná Hora. Deep amber, properly dry and grippy, with dried apricot, orange peel and a bitter herbal snap on the finish. Biodynamic, spontaneously fermented, unfiltered.
Georgia
■ Rkatsiteli, Kisi, Mtsvane (native Georgian varieties)
A traditional Georgian amber wine from Kakheti, blending Rkatsiteli, Kisi and Mtsvane fermented in qvevri clay vessels. Dried apricot, citrus blossom and toasted almond with soft, structured tannins.
Douro, Portugal
■ Moscatel Galego
Tiago Sampaio's skin-contact white from 35-year-old Moscatel Galego vines high in the Douro, on schist and granite. Left on the skins for months, wild-fermented in concrete and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Aromatic and floral like Muscat, but with orange-wine grip and a savoury, mineral edge. Fresh and great with food.
Stellenbosch, South Africa
■ Pinot Gris (skin contact)
Amber-gold with a copper blush after a few days on skins: ripe peach, grapefruit and a touch of green apple, with a light savoury grip of tannin and a clean, dry finish. Low-intervention winemaking, and gentle enough to convert an orange-wine sceptic. Vegan.
Franschhoek, South Africa
■ Semillon (skin macerated)
Burnished amber with a creamy texture: ripe peach and apricot, citrus pith and a whisper of honey blossom, framed by fine tannin from daily punch-downs and bright acidity. Wild-fermented on skins and aged in concrete egg. Small-batch and low-sulphur.
Rioja Alavesa, Spain
■ Viura, Garnacha Blanca, Malvasía (skin contact)
Amber-gold skin-contact white from old-vine Viura, Garnacha and Garnacha Blanca on Rioja Alavesa's white limestone. Two months fermenting whole-cluster on skins, then a year in French foudre, gives a grippy, waxy texture with dried apricot, orange peel and honeyed spice. Certified organic and biodynamic.
Manchuela DO, Spain
■ Macabeo
Skin-contact Macabeo from D.O. Manchuela, given a full two months on its skins. Stone fruit and white blossom, with a soft, textured palate and a mineral finish. Vegan and low-intervention, and made in tiny quantities — around 6,500 bottles in 2022.
Slovakia
■ Welschriesling, Pinot Gris
An aptly named wine — it radiates happiness. Extended skin contact gives a copper-amber colour and added texture. Stone fruit, dried apricot and a gently tannic grip. Refreshingly different — try with food.
Kamptal, Austria
■ Grüner Veltliner, Neuburger
Schlehe means 'sloe', so expect wild fruit character with the added texture of skin maceration. White pepper, citrus peel and a savoury, tannic edge from the skins. Kamptal orange wine at its most approachable.
Barr, France
■ Muscat, Gewurztraminer, Riesling
An amber, skin-macerated Alsace blend of Muscat, Gewurztraminer and Riesling, aged on its fine lees and bottled with nothing added — no sulphites, unfined, unfiltered. Very ripe on the nose, all stewed peach, fresh Muscat grape and exotic fruit, but fresh and beautifully balanced on the palate. Stoeffler have farmed organically since 2000. Lovely with strong cheeses or anything spiced.

— Rosé —

France
■ Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah
A gastronomic Southern Rhône rosé made using the gentle 'rosé de presse' method. Rosehip, wild berries and cherry with ripe, balanced acidity.
Ourém, Portugal
■ Moreto, Aragonez
Strawberry-pink rosé from the Vinha da Malhada plot at Ourém, on the limestone hills at the northern end of the Lisboa region. Crushed and fermented in steel with no skin contact, so the colour comes off the press alone — bone dry, intensely fruity, fresh red berries and a medium finish. Certified organic with Ecocert-Portugal, as the whole estate has been since 1997.
Manchuela DO, Spain
■ Bobal
Pale strawberry-pink rosé from old-vine Bobal in the Cabriel Valley, Manchuela. Ripe strawberry and red fruit on the nose, fresh and intense on the palate with good acidity and a dry, easy-drinking finish. Certified organic.
Alicante, Spain
■ Monastrell (Mourvèdre)
Monastrell gives rosé real substance — this is dry, flavoursome and far from insipid. Strawberry, wild herbs and a pleasingly savoury finish. Great with tapas or grilled fish.
Corbières, France
■ Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault
A classic pale Provence-style rosé from one of the Languedoc's finest estates. Delicate strawberry, white peach and citrus with a bone-dry finish. Elegant and refreshing — brilliant price.

— Sparkling —

Herstmonceux, England
■ Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier
Four years on lees from a single Sussex vintage, 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Meunier, gently pressed to catch the richness of the black grapes without the colour. Dark cherry, blackberry and plum with nutmeg and toasted almond, then creamy and bone dry to finish. The English sparkling that converts Champagne drinkers. Vegan.
Cerdon, France
■ Gamay
A lightly sweet, low-alcohol sparkling rosé made by the méthode ancestrale, the single-fermentation method that defines Bugey-Cerdon and which Balivet is credited with reviving locally. Bright and perfumed with crunchy cherry, raspberry and violet over fine bubbles, and a lovely play between sugar and acidity. Certified organic.
Côte des Blancs (Oger Grand Cru), France
■ Chardonnay
Grower Champagne from a family who have farmed Oger since 1640, and the village's first certified-organic house. Pure Grand Cru Chardonnay with two years on the lees and a good slug of barrel-aged reserve wine. Taut, chalky and precise, with citrus, white peach and a gentle brioche finish.
Limoux, France
■ Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir
A traditional-method sparkler from Limoux with citrus, syllabub and lime-blossom notes, a limestone-driven saline freshness and a gentle bitter twist on the finish.
Kröv, Germany
Staffelter Hof traces its roots to 862 AD, making it one of the oldest wineries in the world. Today Jan Matthias Klein farms organically and makes some of the Mosel's most adventurous wines. This is his traditional-method Sekt from the 2020 vintage: dry, with fine bubbles and the bright acidity of the Mosel.
Gutturnio DOC, Italy
■ Barbera, Croatina
A lightly sparkling red from the Piacenza hills — bright ruby with a soft, gentle fizz, juicy blackcurrant, wild strawberry and violet, light grippy tannin and a clean, dry finish. Serve cool, with charcuterie. Bottled in the local style, hand-tied with string.
Ortrugo dei Colli Piacentini DOC, Italy
■ Ortrugo
Pale straw with a green hint and a delicate, gentle fizz: fresh mint, white flowers and citrus, light and easy on the palate with the soft bitter twist that marks out the Ortrugo grape. A Colli Piacentini classic, hand-tied with string.
Salento, Italy
A pink fizz from L'Archetipo in Salento, Puglia, the heel of Italy's boot. A sparkling rosé for sunny drinking with salumi, pizza or just on its own.
Slovakia
■ Pinot Blanc, Fetească Regală, Grüner Veltliner, Blaufränkisch
Not a pét-nat, and the label makes a point of saying so. Pinot Blanc with a splash of Fetească Regală, Grüner and Blaufränkisch, given skin contact then fourteen months on lees in bottle before disgorging with zero dosage. Coppery pink, creamy in texture and bone dry, with a savoury edge that makes it a far better aperitif than most fizz. From the volcanic slopes beneath Sitno.
Corpinnat, Spain
■ Macabeo, Pinot Noir
Mother-of-pearl pink with a fine, lively bead: ripe raspberry and strawberry, a generous entry settling into a dry, firm finish with a touch of red-fruit-skin tannin. Traditional method, eighteen months on lees. Certified organic, bottled under the Corpinnat mark.
■ Xarel·lo, Macabeu, Parellada
Pale gold with a fine, persistent bead; white flowers, pear and pastry giving way to brioche, cream and toasted almond, with fresh acidity and a dry, structured finish. Traditional method, a minimum two years on lees in Penedès. Certified organic, and bottled under the stricter Corpinnat mark rather than Cava.
Veneto, Italy
■ Glera (Prosecco grape)
Frizzante means gently sparkling — less fizzy than Prosecco but just as charming. Fresh pear, white flowers and a clean, light finish. An approachable crowd-pleaser at a great everyday price.
Tours-sur-Marne, France
■ Pinot Noir (60%), Chardonnay (40%)
Grower Champagne from Ophélie Lamiable, whose six hectares at Tours-sur-Marne are classified Grand Cru in their entirety. Sixty per cent Pinot Noir to forty Chardonnay, the current release built on the 2021 harvest and topped up from a perpetual reserve, then dosed at just 4.5g/l — Extra Brut, properly dry. Citrus and brioche over a long, chalky finish.

— Pét-Nat —

Novi Izvor (Plovdiv), Bulgaria
■ Mavrud
Pale, cloudy pink with lively frothy bubbles; bright raspberry and strawberry fruit with fresh herbs and a hint of almond and citrus. Fresh, dry and gluggable — a fun, funky ancestral-method pét-nat. Natural, wild-yeast.
Plovdiv, Bulgaria
■ Pamid, Merlot
Bright, juicy red fruit with a herbaceous Balkan edge — a lighter, savoury red pét-nat leaning toward cool-climate Pinot in character. Easy-drinking, ancestral method, unfined and unfiltered. Tiny production.
Sancerre, France
■ Pinot Noir
A sparkling rosé from the Fleuriet brothers, whose organic and biodynamic vineyards sit on the steep slopes of Sancerre. Pinot Noir bottled mid-ferment in the ancestral method, giving gentle natural bubbles, red berries and that chalky Sancerre freshness. A proper aperitif.
Champcerie & Chinon, France
■ Apple, Cabernet Franc (co-ferment)
An experimental pét-nat co-ferment (75% apple, 25% Cabernet Franc) made with Chinon winemaker Boris Desbourdes. Crafted as a 'vin de soif' — lower-alcohol and easy-drinking; juicy, funky and fruit-forward. One for fans of funky pét-nats. Serve chilled, but not too chilled.
Lima, Portugal
■ Vinhão, Alvarelhão
Vasco Croft's ancestral-method rosé from the Lima valley — Vinhão and Alvarelhão, a single fermentation, no added yeast and no added sugar. Deep pink, brisk and savoury, with wild raspberry and a herbal Atlantic bite rather than any sweetness. Unfiltered and unstabilised, so expect a little sediment and plenty of personality.
Cima Corgo, Alijó, Portugal
Field blend
Natural sparkling pét-nat made using the ancestral method from old-vine field blend. Wild strawberry, cherry, grapefruit, and a gentle fizz. Cloudy, unfiltered, undisgorged, no added sulphites. Fun, energetic, and refreshing.

— Other —

Němčičky, Czech Republic
■ Moravian red grapes with botanicals
A craft Moravian vermouth with a beautiful rosy pink colour, built on a rosé base of Frankovka, Zweigeltrebe, Svatovavřinecké and Merlot. Aromatic and complex with herbs, spice and floral notes, and properly sweet. Serve over ice with a slice of orange, or use in cocktails.
Catalonia, Spain
■ Catalan red and white varieties, with botanicals
Partida Creus are cult natural wine producers in Penedès. MUZ is their extraordinary vermouth: intensely herbal, bitter-sweet and complex, built on a blend of young red, barrel-aged red and oxidative white from their own vines. Unmissable.